The engine has started to leak oil now. It sat for 20 years without leaking a drop but after 6 hr of flying it is leaking pretty good. It is also burning 1/2 qt per hour. I'm going to give the engine 25 hours to stop burning so much oil or call it quits and do an OVHL.
Leaking would be expected after 20 years of seals drying out. With the oil BURN, what were the condition of the cylinders prior to engine start? If there was any corrosion then rings could be damaged.
I would do a compression check and if you have a leaking cylinder, listen for where the air is escaping. If its in the crankcase its rings.
Longest flight yet (48 minutes ) to a friends airport who offered to borescope my engine, but I've declined for now. The engine continues to use 1/2 qt per hour at the 10 hr mark. We did determine that it is actually burning the oil cuz the tailpipe is sooty. The breather only has a drip. I think this clears the oil rings of being stuck. I looked at the lower spark plugs and they were a little more brown than they should be, one a little more than the others. I can't believe it, but Lycoming says this engine has a 2 qt min., it's a 6 qt sump. I asked my friends if it smoked when I flew over and they said the sun was in their eyes and they couldn't really see. They did say I had greased it on!
This is a draggy little airplane. You really have to put the nose down to get it going. I've only had it up to about 120, at red line (150) you would be pointed about straight down. I can also see that it's not a bush plane, it has too much of a low speed sink rate, but then it wasn't meant to be a bush plane. It does have a pretty decent climb rate and I am often doing 105 indicated mph in cruise, but when I get back to my city airport I always want to be high and slow, but that gets in the way of the jets and airliners. I'm trying to adapt and I've just about stopped pissing off the controllers with not talking correctly.
@ecos36gmail-com Michael, did you get the rigging squared away? Rudder trim? Our 10A always flew straight other than not having the rudder trimmed correctly. We always had to keep a little right rudder pressure to keep the ball centered. When the rudder was covered the trim screws were covered over, so we never made an attempt to adjust them.
@dcn6102m. I am still dinking with getting the plane to stay level. The rudder trim screws have more travel than I thought so it is getting closer to flying with the ball in the middle. There was more adjustment in the trim screw than I thought. Now I'm trying to get the ailerons to fly level cuz the plane falls off to one side when left alone. The wings are on right cuz it stalls straight ahead so I will keep adjusting the just the ailerons. You could do a cross country in it now as it's not terrible.
@ecos36gmail-com When you center the ball with the rudder, does that pick up the heavy wing? Any change in rudder trim is going to affect lateral trim because of the large amount of dihedral.
Todays flight had the ball almost centered, but the right wing falls off. Just a bit of left aileron seems to fix that. I could adjust the right aileron down or the left up. Which is more effective?
I'm flying in and out of a regional airport and I often need to maintain a good speed to fit in. I give them 120 mph as long as I can, then do a wheel landing up to a taxiway. The plane trims out pretty well on final so it's fun.
Your guess is probably better than mine. You have rudder trim, wing incidence, and aileron adjustment to play with. Any single adjustment is going to affect the other axis. You could increase the incidence in the right wing just a tad; that would increase lift and drag on the right side, which should pick up the right wing and maybe bring the ball to center; but might affect the straight away stall characteristics you now have. Any increase in right rudder trim is going to aggravate the right wing low. Sounds like you're to the point of getting it fine tuned. If you don't want to change the incidence on the right wing, I would just adjust that right aileron down just a tad.
This is the conundrum we encounter when a larger engine is added to an airframe that was designed for a smaller one with less torque and a lower design airspeed. The Stinson engineers had the airframe and rigging fine tuned for 80 hp in the Stinson 10; in our case we went from 90 hp in the 10A to 135 hp. You may not be able to get it perfect, but it should be interesting trying.
@dcn6102m I'm just about to call it good for now. We are about to move from Oregon to Florida and I will be leaving the Stinson in Oregon until I can get a hangar in the JAX area. I think it's good enough now for 25 hours of flying.
Hey can a 6'3" guy fit into an hw-75 without hitting their head? I am thinking about buying one but would rather answer the question before traveling hours to see it. Thanks.
Sorry for the off topic post but there are not many places on the internet where these planes are actively discussed.
@kdwittnebelyahoo-com I will check things out for you, but I doubt it. The trim handle is maybe 3" over my head and I'm just 5'10"
You could make a custom seat for the 105 or get a Piper Comanche! I think they have the most headroom of any old single
@kdwittnebelyahoo-com. There is a rib in the headliner right over my head and there is about 2.5" of clearance. The seat is just one notch from all the way back now. Again I'm 5'10".
@ecos36gmail-com the current owner says it is tight for over 6' I think this is a no go for me. Thank you for checking and following up. I owe you a beer if you ever land at ksmo let me know.