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Horizontal Stabilizer removal

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Alistair
(@maxchord)
Posts: 113
Estimable Member
Topic starter
 

Anyone have any words of wisdom regarding the removal of the horizontal stab..? The manual is a little vague, and my main concern is relieving the tension on the elevator cables. I don't actually need to remove it completely, just free it up enough to remove my mis-routed trim cable which is between the underside of the stab and the frame cross member.

Al Corden
N97555 - Sid
1946 108

 
Posted : 17/02/2016 8:49 pm
resto108
(@resto108)
Posts: 283
Reputable Member
 

If I understand right, I'd run the trim all the way so the trim turnbuckle is as far forward as possible, disconnect it, tie a string to it, then pull it out, route it correctly, and reconnect. Luckily you've got it all apart for the annual!

 
Posted : 18/02/2016 10:55 am
Jason Tepool
(@tadpole)
Posts: 169
Estimable Member
 

Soon I need to get around to putting in my new trim cable. When the plane was recovered from the wreck, the crew pulled the tail off and simply cut the cable right there. I have a new one and need to figure out the best way to get it installed. Been contemplating if connecting the ends of the new one with the cut ends of the old (currently installed) one would work. I've yet to crawl into the plane to see how it's actually routed from front to back.

Jason "Tadpole" Tepool
N247C 108-2 w/220hp

 
Posted : 18/02/2016 2:45 pm
Alistair
(@maxchord)
Posts: 113
Estimable Member
Topic starter
 

Jason

There's a lengthy conversation on trim cable routing on the Yahoo site. Good luck trying to follow it though..

Al Corden
N97555 - Sid
1946 108

 
Posted : 18/02/2016 5:36 pm
Alistair
(@maxchord)
Posts: 113
Estimable Member
Topic starter
 

resto108

Wish I could, there's not enough clearance between the underside of the stab and the cross member to pull anything through...

Al Corden
N97555 - Sid
1946 108

 
Posted : 18/02/2016 5:37 pm
Jason Tepool
(@tadpole)
Posts: 169
Estimable Member
 

Jason

There's a lengthy conversation on trim cable routing on the Yahoo site. Good luck trying to follow it though..

Ugg, I don't even want to try to find that.

Jason "Tadpole" Tepool
N247C 108-2 w/220hp

 
Posted : 19/02/2016 4:29 pm
lawheelock
(@lawheelock)
Posts: 774
Prominent Member
 

Al,

Perhaps you could not see the photo clearly that I sent you. My speedometer trim cable does NOT go between the stabilizer and the structural tube It goes under the tube.

Larry Wheelock, A&P/IAStinson 108 N584LW 180 LycTexas in Winter; Indiana in Summer

 
Posted : 21/02/2016 8:11 pm
Alistair
(@maxchord)
Posts: 113
Estimable Member
Topic starter
 

Larry

Understood. My problem was the cable DID go between the horiz stab and the cross member, and the fit was so tight that I had to unbolt the stab to pull it through and re route it, so it now runs under the cross member as does yours. I ended up having to remove the stab completely as there is a lot of corrosion in there, especially the bolts that hold the two halves of the ribs together, they are completely rusted. It's probably as well I did take it off because the up elevator cable that goes through the stab is totally rusted through where you can't see it, and doesn't look to have seen any lube in 50 years.... I think the hardware used to mount the stab came out of someone's miscellaneous used bolt bucket, certainly don't match the spec in the parts manual. Any experience with Corrosion X as a corrosion remover..? The company maintains the stuff will get down to bare metal, a better alternative than scotch-brite I would think.

Al Corden
N97555 - Sid
1946 108

 
Posted : 21/02/2016 9:00 pm
lawheelock
(@lawheelock)
Posts: 774
Prominent Member
 

Al,

Corrosion X is great stuff! I use it all the time. But, best to clean first with the scotchbrite. Corrosion X is a better penetrant for loosening stuck bolts than even Blaster, which is good. I have been able to find it in the marine section of a True Value hardware store here in the RGV in aerosol and pump containers. About $17/ container. I first heard of it and bought a gallon at the Mooney Convention in 1990 or '91.
Univair has new elevator cables already the correct size. Expensive, but best way to fix. Now you will need the tensiometer. You probably noticed in my photos the hairy look of the elevator and trim cables. That is dirt gathered because I greased them at installation, 38 years ago.
It is good you are finding these things. Maybe I have been a little overly critical of your investigations. Sounds like a lot of stuff was done over the years incorrectly. Billy Carter can re-skin the stabilizer if it is needed due to corrosion.

Cheers,

Larry

Larry Wheelock, A&P/IAStinson 108 N584LW 180 LycTexas in Winter; Indiana in Summer

 
Posted : 21/02/2016 10:40 pm
Alistair
(@maxchord)
Posts: 113
Estimable Member
Topic starter
 

Larry

Thanks for the info, I used a 50/50 mix of acetone/ATF to shift the two vertical bolts on the stab, they were really hard to get out. The four drilled clevis bolts were barely hand tight with nyloc covering the drill holes..

I think the stab is a lost cause, the ribs are in bad shape, and the bolts are very rusty. There's also a very large repair in the leading edge that's pretty ugly. Earl has one he says is in "perfect condition" for $850, and that is probably a belts and suspenders way to go. The vertical stab has been zinc chromated and looks to be in good shape, the insides of the wings have a few white powdery areas, but were extensively cleaned and Corrosion X blasted a couple of years ago. I have to say the rusty elevator cable gave me a nasty moment... At least I can see all the other cables, and none are hidden like this one was. Might even be out of the hangar before June...

Al

Al Corden
N97555 - Sid
1946 108

 
Posted : 21/02/2016 11:11 pm
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